Incline Resin 3D Printers are about to ruin Games Workshop forever.

[Trans-Financial-Man]

So lads, my dad got me a 3D printer to be hip with the zoomers. It'll be arriving soon. I've been tinkering with various software and trauling internet places looking for 40k and Fantasy STLs to print off. I know Resin 3D printers need a bit of tinkering, but the results often speak for themselves.

First of all, here is an Asian thot reviewing the Anycubic Photon. She has massive fake boobs so she clearly knows her plastic very well.


Then I looked at a couple more vids. This one by actual miniature channel Miniac actually compares resin 3d prints to GW. His boobs aren't as big but his opinion seems solid none the less.



I really want to play Death Korp of Krieg. But the only places to sell the miniatures are Forge World who want to sell it for a premium.

£40 for a single squad. Wow, Resin must be so expensive to work with.

Wait, one highly detailed miniature is only 12 of our Queen's Great British pennies to manufacture?

Of course I am ignoring the costs for designing and sculpting the master mould (in a 3d designer) manufacturing the box (even though FW stuff is sent in a plastic bag) and all the other production costs. So that's why it's even better to cut out all those middle people and make the miniatures yourself. You're actually saving Games Workshop money they can spend on making more Primaris models.

Ah, but it's more than 3 hours for one model. It must be so tedious to print each individual model, right?

I can get a full Heresy era squad of Tactical Marines for less than a Fredo. You yanks don't know what a Fredo is. It's a cheap bar of chocolate that is going up in price every time I turn around.

So, the Resin 3D printer I ordered will be arriving in the next couple of days whereupon I will update you with my progress to Make Warhammer Cheap Again. I'm going to keep looking into rare Warhammer models to print. If anyone has any details on discontinued Bretonnian models I'd be most grateful.

 

[Trans-Financial-Man]

It rises! I'll post some thoughts on the finished model once I clean it up. It's one I kitbashed out of several existing STLs on Thingiverse. Big ole Spess Mehreen! Probably messed up the scale. We shall see.

 

[Mustawd]

NICE. This is awesome.

 

[Trans-Financial-Man]

So model is fully printed. After two disasters from not aligning the build plate properly I was off to the races. Leveling the build plate is probably one of the biggest ball aches of resin 3D printing.

Here is a 3D model of what I was printing. My take on the Black Templars Emperor's Champion. I kitbashed it using Meshmixer from a bunch of different other STLs from Thingiverse. I have no knowledge or talent for 3D modelling but I was able to assemble this thing properly somehow. After you sort out the model, you need to use a 3d printer slicer. I'm using Chitubox. It has auto supports. Supports are important because in order to print a nicely detailed resin model, the build plate is suspended above a small vat of resin with a transparent bottom. The build plate is slowly lowered into the vat. Beneath the vat is an LCD screen that shoots UV light in specific patterns per layer as the build plate slowly rises. Revealing whatever unsightly thing you fiddled about with 3d renderers to make . Resulting in far greater detail than your average FDM 3D printer, which uses plastic spools heated up and ejected into layers via a nosel.

I used Chitubox to add auto supports to the model. This stops the model from falling off the build plate mid print. Which would ruin the print. Requiring a full restart. These things can take 5-10 hours to print so having to restart it midway through is yet another ball-ache.

After two attempts at 3D printing, totaling 8 hours of work and waiting, I finally succeeded on my third try.

I'm tired as fuck so I'm going to sleep. I will discuss more of my findings after I sand, paint and then use these miniatures. As you can see, resin 3d printing offers an almost unparalleled level of detail. Just look at this guys's back. Ignore the nub mark from rhe supports I was supposed cut. I'd love to hear your guys thoughts on my work. I have more models to show you coming right up.

 

[hello friend]

It's cool. Shield is comically thick, though.

You should share your STL resources since you've already gone to the trouble of compiling them.

 

[taxalot]

We are entering a new age where we will soon be able to live with open source furniture and eat with GNU forks.

 

[Dayyālu]

That's legit impressive considering what I saw in the past regarding 3d printing GW's models. I seriously doubt they will perform as well on the newer stuff (GW is purposefully going monopose and massive useless detail to raise prices and stem 3d printing, I guess) but for Oldhammer stuff it could be excellent. I mean,

I can see this working swimmingly.

Also, the gal reviewing 3d printers almosy undressed seems like a Robocop sketch. What the fuck, modern world, what the fuck

 

[gerey]

That's legit impressive considering what I saw in the past regarding 3d printing GW's models. I seriously doubt they will perform as well on the newer stuff (GW is purposefully going monopose and massive useless detail to raise prices and stem 3d printing, I guess) but for Oldhammer stuff it could be excellent. I mean,

That's just postponing the inevitable. Technology will eventually catch up to them, and there's only so much wiggle room with pricing before the majority of costumers balk.

Also, I'm genuinely happy GW is going to get buttfucked by this. Couldn't happen to more deserving assholes.

 

[PorkyThePaladin]

How have video games not ruined physical toys already? They do everything toys did but way better.

 

[Trans-Financial-Man]

So I went and printed a whole squad of Spess Mehreens.

They went really well, but I was an idiot and sprayed them with undercoat before they were fully cured. So bits of the paint ran off. I sprayed a few more times and ended up with blobs of paint that hide detail. But other than that, the models looks indistinguishable from GW ones. Other than the fact that a bit of the ammo clip and backpack fell off each model due to my own improper use of supports.

Next up printed some Armageddon Steel Legion boys. The photos really don't do justice to the detail captured here. Once I have them painted I'll show you all how they look. So watch out for that in the near future. Also, I can't wait for GW to release Warhammer Old World minis under Forge World using resin at a horrible mark up when I can print resin minis for pennies on the Pound.

 

[hello friend]

Nice

 

[Shadenuat]

GW does not release resin anymore. Their plan is to get rid of all resin in a few years judging by rumours.
It is all high detailed multipart plastic kits nowadays (or some "easy to build" less detailed monopose).

 

[Trans-Financial-Man]

I have been slowly 3D printing more and more models. I even kitbashed a few of my own from parts of other models. These are available on Thingiverse. Give them a look, I recently made decent looking Night Lord proxies. My goal for the things I make myself is to have at least one squad of basic troops and a HQ. Obviously, based on what I've said before these are best printed on a resin 3D printer. I will be showing you the results of my prints momentarily.

 

[Akratus]

Hey I remember that lady from some nothing internet clickbait from years ago. . yeah people were like totally shocked that she had made a miniskirt. . with an led light. . shining on her cooter.

Spoiler

"I call it the Daddy Issues 5000!"

 

[SmartCheetah]

Which printer are You using Trans-Financial-Man ? Normal Photon? I'm a Photon S user :D Another question - where did You get those Speeeeehsmarine models?
Aaaand another one - Where can You download the base You used for space marines? I need something to compare it with my custom bases.

Anyway, starting my Patreon campaign in February. I'm trying to hit the niche with "semi-realistic" down to earth models, instead of heroic stuff. Had few prints already and as smaller hands are working OK, thin blades etc. unfortunately just don't work - therefore, I need to go somewhere in between. Still, got few more models to prepare before I'll start begging people for money, lol.

 

[Trans-Financial-Man]

Which printer are You using Trans-Financial-Man ? Normal Photon? I'm a Photon S user :D Another question - where did You get those Speeeeehsmarine models?
Aaaand another one - Where can You download the base You used for space marines? I need something to compare it with my custom bases.

Anyway, starting my Patreon campaign in February. I'm trying to hit the niche with "semi-realistic" down to earth models, instead of heroic stuff. Had few prints already and as smaller hands are working OK, thin blades etc. unfortunately just don't work - therefore, I need to go somewhere in between. Still, got few more models to prepare before I'll start begging people for money, lol.

Models including bases can be found on my Thingiverse page.

The models are kitbashes I created and you can find the originals cited on my designs' pages' The bases were made with the Warhammer base generator. Also found on Thingiverse. I am using the OG Photon as I was able to get a really good sub £200 deal for it.

 

[SmartCheetah]

https://www.patreon.com/dhtabletopemporium Here comes my Patreon. Lets hope for the best.

 

[Trans-Financial-Man]

Okay so may have stolen fire from the Jews Prometheus. Printed some Disordered Midgets. This is probably the best my 3D printing has gotten. Switched to grey resin for a more traditional look that also holds paint better. My supports for the model have gotten better and I can do most of them without damaging the model. I'll be printing the arms seperately. The bases are okay. I still haven't figured out how to do them without at least a portion of them deforming. Tried printing them slanted, and on their side. Printing them flat tends to cause a vacuum that deforms the bases as well. This lot was my best attempt.

There are probably a dozen nitpicks you can make. Especially about the bases. But I'm improving as I go along and if you compare my Space Marines to my Chaos Marines to this, you will see a difference as I figure out what works and doesn't work with SLA prints.

 

[Akratus]

I never understood decorated bases. Why would you want your characters on a brick road base while they're on a mars-like surface or in a forest? I'd go for see-through plastic.

 

[Trans-Financial-Man]

I never understood decorated bases. Why would you want your characters on a brick road base while they're on a mars-like surface or in a forest? I'd go for see-through plastic.

Have you ever actually played a war game before? A see through plastic base will result in minis that look like they are floating in mid air. Regardless of how you base your minis they will clash with many of the surfaces on the table. So you might as well make them look cool.

 

[Akratus]

I never understood decorated bases. Why would you want your characters on a brick road base while they're on a mars-like surface or in a forest? I'd go for see-through plastic.

Have you ever actually played a war game before? A see through plastic base will result in minis that look like they are floating in mid air. Regardless of how you base your minis they will clash with many of the surfaces on the table. So you might as well make them look cool.

No can't say I've ever thought the investment was worth it. But I guess it makes sense not to go for floating ones. The idea still bugs me though.

 

[Haba]

I never understood decorated bases. Why would you want your characters on a brick road base while they're on a mars-like surface or in a forest? I'd go for see-through plastic.

Have you ever actually played a war game before? A see through plastic base will result in minis that look like they are floating in mid air. Regardless of how you base your minis they will clash with many of the surfaces on the table. So you might as well make them look cool.

No can't say I've ever thought the investment was worth it. But I guess it makes sense not to go for floating ones. The idea still bugs me though.

Unit cohesion. And it is a major part of the visible model for a lot of minis.

Imagine this with black bases. Or painted flat green.

 

[Akratus]

Ah yeah, I forgot you could just have a black plastic square. That's much better, I'd go for that.

 

[udm]

Litko does some neat coloured translucent bases. I imagine they would go well (on a skirmish level probably).

Then again I typically just use black bases, and only occasionally add texture and wash when I feel like it.

 

[SmartCheetah]

What is your routine Trans-Financial-Man ?
Personally, I use prusa slicer first, auto-orientating or doing it by hand. 2nd step - adding prusa automated supports set on 74% (With highly detailed models I'm going with 88%)
after that, chitubox with options set to specific resin. Works wonders.
Those dwarves look like they've seen a little bit too much exposure, but it might look like this because of grey resin. Are you priming them afterwards before painting? I do.

Few things I've test printed yesterday, trying to check out the scale. I will be reprinting those 3mm higher as I don't like how small they are (Roughly half the size of primaris space marines)
Those boys(and girls) are needed for my 4ed WFRP pnp sessions.

These aren't cleaned perfectly yet, but for the most part I'm satisfied with the result. In 32mm scale they should look great.

Some space marines eliminators I printed and speed-painted in one day. They doesn't look good because of Coronavirus as I can't get hold of proper bases and better paints - Therefore I didn't give a damn. Got only the basic citadel set. Printing bases is a little bit of resin waste, so I tend to avoid that. Most of the time I glue stuff together.

Good thing I'm fucking done with green transluscent resin. It's brittle as heck. One of the most brittle resins out there.