After that, I tried following the One Day Morrowind Modernization guide for OpenMW. First of all, that's a fucking lie, it took me two days to get this bitch installed, and then I found it there is absolutely no quality control on those fucking modlists hosted on openmw. Several missing textures I had to install other mods for, and then there were all sorts of dumb bugs introduced like floating npcs.
In the end, I ended up uninstalling everything, and going with Morrowind Enhanced Textures, Morrowind Rebirth, and the volumetric mists and fog mod thats just come out for openmw. I think I'll use this as a base and add very judiciously from here. The problem with morrowind modding scene is the labyrinthian nature of it all and the extreme specificity of the modding endeavors. I hate that shit, there's no good reason for any thinking human to waste their time like that, purely exercises in autism. There should be more mods like MR with sweeping coverage. I don't care if some g*rman thinks its less than optimal, I'm not digging through 300+ files and compatibility patches and manual edits to get some perfectly jerry-rigged balance when there is a Good Enough option that does everything.
FWIW, the nightly build of OpenMW runs great and looks great with all the various features turned on, shadows, distant terrain, water shader and so on. I can't for the life of me imagine why people want to insist on using MWSE, are the mods for it even that good? (which is putting aside the fact that the latest builds of openMW support lua)
I followed the exact same list (except I excluded some mods) for my current playthrough (and first time trying OpenMW) and honestly I wish I had read this first. Exact same experience really. OpenMW is subject to a kind of Apple level "It just works!" shilling. Which to be fair is true for the game itself, easy distant land generation, and the performance even when you have a whole bunch of mods installed. Frame rate is just very good even with new textures and shit. Whereas in heavily modded vanilla it can drop a little even on modern systems.
What I didn't realise is that the actual
process of installing a bunch of mods is, if anything,
more cumbersome than in vanilla, and it takes longer. Just to install this list, you have to download and learn how to use a roughly equivalent number of third-party tools as in e.g. Sigourn's list for vanilla. Also, for me the whole vanilla "it's slow and crashes all the time!" prejudice hasn't really been true in the last 5 years or so. In vanilla, as long as you're not a complete moron, you have to try pretty hard to fuck up your install. Although in both vanilla and OpenMW, the same problem occurs when you have these mod lists that promise to bring the game into the current decade relatively painlessly, but then in reality, there is simply too much jury-rigging, too much "Install texture pack X, but then delete these 75 files manually, and get pack Y from Russian website Z to get better Imperial buildings" or whatever the fuck.
Having tried both, I'm now a bit 50-50 on vanilla vs OpenMW, I can see the pros and cons of both. Both of them have some functionalities that I miss in the other. I can't complain about the end result with OpenMW, everything looks and plays great, which is why I will keep playing it and would probably give it the nod in the future, just not with this list. And I learned how to manually add mods to MW in like 2006, so anything compared to that is already huge progress. It will be a great day when you can just make a good enough 2023-proof default installation at the click of a button, but if it never happens, it wouldn't upset me either.
I am now following what many people have started doing before: just delivered the package to Caius Cosades, did some early Seyda Neen and Balmora quests, got to level 2, and then beelined straight for the mainland and just avoided the vanilla game altogether in favour of new TR content, so as not to get burnt out retreading familiar territory. TR at this point is basically a game of its own, just not with all the factions playable yet, so you have to take that into consideration when making a character. Old Ebonheart and surroundings are basically newbie content for a new game entirely, which is great. I also still wish they would bring back the separate "Mainland factions", but that's just my pet peeve.
Also, maybe redundant to say this, but with anything that replaces creatures, NPCs, flora, or anything else appearance-wise, you have to check the screenshots extremely carefully. Because for a lot of these modders, "better" = Oblivion or Skyrim. Can't be helped until we institute a massive eugenics programme.